Posts
 |
Day 1 – June 22, 2003
Montréal - Lévis
The trip started off well as early on, on the Les Dauphins shuttle, I met two very nice men in their late forties and fifties, Jean-Paul and Achille. They were going on a cycling trip to New Brunswick. It took four hours to get to Québec from Montréal. I strapped my bike onto the roof where they had a bike rack. It was a very hot day and so when I made it to Lévis, and got lost – ended up circling around and climbing up steep hills – I thought I would faint. I arrived to one of the most beautiful houses, where I took a long bath and actually napped for a couple of hours. I went for a walk when it cooled down, eating at a restaurant that overlooked Quebec City, all lit up in the night. I was glad to have my cell so that I could talk with Mom and share the excitement of the start of the trip. I was tired starting off. Heather and I had had a huge dinner party two nights before.
Day 2 – June 23, 2003
Lévis - La Pocatière
I left early on a muggy, humid morning with little wind. It grew hotter in the afternoon. The Route Verte took a detour off the highway to overlook fields that met the water’s edge with white flowering trees. However, there were many steep hills that added km to the ride. I passed the same pair of hitchhikers three times that day. On the third time I asked then where they were going. Sainte-Flavie. (I would be there in three days). The day’s high was sitting by the water at Berthier sur Mer, on a long dock, and talking to Pa on my cell. Left a message for Lucien too. The day’s low was the last long stretch of highway against a strong wind.
 |
L'Islet-sur-Mer |
The most vivid memories were the smell of skunk, burnt tires and manure. Seeing a cow graze in a forest of Christmas trees. Fields with streaks of intense yellow, almost lime? Dandelions. A huge dappled gray work horse that stomped its back feet menacingly as I fed it. Ant hills.
Day 3 – June 24, 2003
La Pocatière - Trois Pistoles
Very strong wind with no tree cover. Sunny and alternate downcast skies but with a chilly wind from the water. The day’s high was cycling through the pretty villages of Notre-Dame de la Portage and Kamouraska. I stopped by the water at the latter to look at the waves crashing on the rocks. The day’s low was the hill I had to climb to get into Trois-Pistoles, on rubber legs because of the wind. (I soon discovered a bike path on the return trip). However, Nicole and Ivan were great hosts and shared their meal with me – spaghetti dinner with beer. They then gave me a tour around town. The townspeople gather at the dock at dusk for a stroll. I treated them to ice cream. I have memories of farms and forests with 20 feet high white crosses, les Croix de chemin. Roosters crowing as I passed St-Denis.
Day 4 – June 25, 2003
Trois Pistoles - Sainte-Flavie
A muggy, humid morning. Little wind. Rain at Pointe-au-Père. The day started on a low as I had to walk my bike up very steep, gravelly hills in the morning, on the Littoral Basque trails. But riding downhill into the Parc québécois du Bic made up for it as I feasted my eyes on the roundish mountains rising from the water surrounded by fog. In Pointe-au-Père, at the lighthouse, I met Éric, a physiotherapist. He came over to talk as I was putting on my tights because of the wind. He was curious to know where I was from and where I was going.
Memories of seeing cows graze in the shadow of the forests and the long pebbly beach at Sainte-Flavie with the folk-art, where I walked until the sun went down.
Day 5 – June 26, 2003
Sainte-Flavie - Réserve faunique de Matane
It was a very hot day (more than 30 degrees) with no cover from the sun and little wind. I had to stop and buy Gatorade and apply sunscreen regularly. At times, I was going up hills so slowly, the GPS thought that I had stopped. I can’t count how many logging trucks passed in a thunderous roar. I stopped in Matane to buy groceries and a tarp and some rope for camping at Canadian Tire. The day’s low was taking the wrong entrance to the park twice. I was lost and frustrated and tired from the scorching sun. Had a hot panicky cry overlooking the water, where a few men were fly fishing.
Felt better later on, pitching my tent up for the first time and enjoying the sensation of sleeping outdoors, separated only by a thin screen.
Day 6 – June 27, 2003
Réserve faunique de Matane - Ste-Anne-des-Monts
The day’s high was waking up at dawn with the birds, safe and cozy in my tent. It was still cool when I set out but it soon went up to more than 30 degrees, with no cover from the sun. The air was still with no wind. Met a guy from Montreal working in the park for the summer on the Quebec portion of the Appalachian Trail. At about noon, I was not surprised that I got a flat on my back tire. I had been pushing my bike over hills with large broken rocks for hours. The sun was directly over me and casting no shadow. Unrelenting and intense. I ran out of water. I cried a bit which helped me calm down, unpacked my bike, replaced the tube, pumped it up, and re-packed. Almost as I finished, a truck came by and the driver asked if I was ok. It felt good to be able to tell him that everything was under control. He told me that there was a natural spring up ahead, but was nice enough to give me a bottle of water. When I got to the spring, I slipped on a wet board and fell behind onto my back into the mud. I had to laugh so that I would not break down. I ate my lunch by the water at the Centre d’interprétation de l’Orignal. Had a real hard cry just to be done with all the anxiety, and proceeded to take a much needed break. I went through the exhibit, marveled at the size of a huge stuffed bull moose — like a dinosaur! — and chatted a bit with the two interpreters. The rest was downhill (literally), and I encountered no other traffic. Though I heard rustlings, I saw no wildlife. I was disturbed by the amount of forestry clear cutting lots. They would cut trees from the inside and leave a wall of trees so that you could not see the immediate damage. It was surprising that this was happening in a provincial reserve. I finally made it to the hostel, looking a little ragged. I saw a tall, skinny guy and wondered if he was a cyclist. The next morning we talked over breakfast and he introduced himself as Robin from Slovenia. Turned out to be the same guy I contacted through Lonely Planet before setting out on my trip. He had not gotten back to me but it was for the better. I needed to know I could do this trip on my own.
Day 7 – June 28, 2003
Ste-Anne-des-Monts - Parc Québécois de la Gaspésie
Robin was going to hitchhike into the park the next morning. I decided to take it easy and eat breakfast at my leisure and write postcards. I also went and bought extra tire tubes and bike supplies as I had used my last spare tube. In the end, I was frustrated that the hostel was on the outskirts of town. I walked because I needed to take a break from the bike, but it meant that I only left for the park after noon. Had I left earlier, I could have taken a hike and explored a little more.
On the climb uphill, a van passed me and beeped as they slowed down. I gave the driver a blank stare. Robin was in the back. I did not recognize him. The day’s high was meeting Gen (Genevièvre) Dorais at the Faucon cabin. She was hiking part of the Appalachian trail by herself. We hit if off and ended up eating a nice supper at the lodge together. It was nice to be able to practice my French. The woman at the desk, Julie Fournier, was also very friendly, inviting me to contact her the next time I was in the area.
Day 8 – June 29, 2003
Mont-Albert - Petite-Vallée
A hot dusty morning as I had to walk my bike up gravely mountain roads; they were too steep to ride. Pheasants would ruffle their feathers and give chase or bluff as I passed by. I saw moose and deer droppings everywhere, but no wildlife. As I went downhill, it was faster despite the gravel and pocked-marked roads. When I reached Mont St-Pierre, the air was much cooler because of the Saint-Laurent. I was faced with a head wind. There were less and less buildings and the villages grew smaller as I advanced. An old man in Manche-d’Épée wished me luck, warning me of the hills up ahead. I thought he was not giving me enough credit until I saw the first hill. More of a small mountain, and there was a range of them. I had to walk my bike up. A little bit after Rivière-de-la-Madelaine, a van passed me, evidently took pity on me when they saw the hills up ahead, and circled back. It was a family from Ottawa. They strapped my bike to the back and drove me all the way to La Maison Lebreux in la Petite Vallée. Though it was only 20 km, because of the extreme hills, it would have taken me another 3-4 hours. I would have arrived at 10:00 PM, completely exhausted. The day’s low was eating a can of beans in my room for supper because the dining room was full, feeling very sorry for myself. I was too tired too protest. The corner store was closed. It was a remote area. There were no restaurants in the vicinity. I was too sore to get back on my bike. There was a huge party going on in the barn next door because of the music festival (Village en chanson de Petite-Vallée). Robert Charlebois was performing. I felt very alone and went to bed early. My room was so tiny, like an attic. I couldn’t stand up straight without bumping my head.
Day 9 – June 20, 2003
Petite-Vallée - Cap-aux-os
I had a good hearty breakfast the next morning, but because it only started at 8:00 AM, I left relatively late. I had many more hills to tackle. It was hard not to get discouraged. I really pushed myself. Sometimes I would cry with frustration. Most of the time I just buckled down and rode. It was a miserable morning. The sea wind was so cold, I kept having to stop and put on more layers. There was a strong cold headwind and it was overcast. The hills were tough and constant. It rained hard with a fierce wind at Rivière du Renard, but after this point, the hills lessened a bit. I was getting tired of walking my bike up hills. Plus, the road conditions were bad; no shoulder and lots of pot holes.
At l’Anse-au-Griffon, I passed Robin coming the opposite way. He was on an exploratory ride. When I finally arrived at the hostel, he was waiting. He had made supper for me and Dan from Australia. I was so touched at his generosity. We talked and laughed after dinner for a long time. I grew to prefer the hostels over the campgrounds because of the people. The camaraderie, the laughter.
Day 10 – July 1, 2003
Cap-aux-Os - Parc National Forillon
This was an incredible park. It was amazing to have a whole day off to hike and enjoy the scenery. The day’s high was definitely walking to “the end of the world” at the tip of the park: Cap-de-Gaspé. It is either the beginning or the end of the Appalachian trail. There is a beautiful lighthouse at the tip with a few seals bobbing in the water below. I could imagine having a small wedding there and for the honeymoon, strapping on a backpack and hiking the trail. On the way I saw three porcupines busily grazing away in the grass, oblivious to my presence.
A seagull, with what appeared to be a broken leg, swooped down on me a couple of times at a quiet beach. Perhaps, I was close to a nest. I had to rush the last 10 km because it was getting dark. I had to go through the woods in the dark to get back to the campsite, but I did not encounter a bear as I feared. (There had been a sighting earlier in the day). I ended up hiking 20 km that day, completely enjoying the outdoors.
Day 11 – July 2, 2003
Cap-Bon-Ami - Percé
I left early from my campsite, but the hills slowed me down. I got to the hostel and met up with Dan. He told me that Robin had already left. We said our goodbyes and I raced up the hill to catch up with him. He was annoyed with me, but soon were both in good spirits despite the wind in our face and the overcast weather. The day’s low was when I was called ‘salope’ as I was struggling up a steep hill in Gaspé. It was just a bunch of kids but it still hurt. I was glad to be with Robin. (Because I had so many bags, he joked that it looked like we were a couple, and I had the burden of the load. The good wife).
The day’s high was definitely reaching the top of the hill overlooking Percé and drinking in that stunning view, perhaps made more special by the contrast. The last hills into Percé had been heavy with traffic. (I decided to cancel my spot at the Bois-de-Percé campground. It was worth it to stay at La Maison Rouge with Robin. It was a magical evening and it rained in the morning so I was grateful I didn’t go camping. It is hard to set off on a day of cycling when it is cold and wet.) Robin and I were giddy with excitement. First we ran out to Percé rock. I had been there as a kid, but it seemed more vibrant than my dim memories with its pinks, mints and creams; the way the light shone on the rock. The tide was rising so we could not walk right up to it. Then we went to get groceries and Robin cooked an amazing vegetarian meal. He set up the table and everything and we chatted and laughed as we ate. The other guests were very friendly also, like we were with old friends. I met a Finnish man from Montreal who lives in the Coop in Montreal, close to Chinatown. The hostel itself was a beautiful reconverted farm with lots of windows. The next morning, getting ready, we were both smiling. I felt almost euphoric. I was just so happy to have his company after so many days of cycling on my own. I was fond of him like he was a little old man with all his quirks that I had grown used to over the years. Maybe he felt the same way as he hummed a little tune to himself.
Day 12 – July 3, 2003
Percé - Hopetown
When I got up at 5 AM, I was greeted with a pounding headache from the changing air pressure. Outside, it was misty with heavy rain at times. It cleared in the afternoon and the sun came out. In Cap-d’Espoir, Robin’s tire blew out. He hitchhiked to Grande-Rivière and I caught up to him at the bike store. We felt bad to part ways, which is why it felt good to catch up to my friend again. After cycling so many days solo, it was such a treat to have a cycling buddy. (I later found out that because of SARS, there were less European tourists on the trails that year, which explained why I seldom encountered other cyclists.) At the B&B, I pretended that he was my boyfriend so that he could share my room. That way he could save some money. (I had made the reservation weeks before for only one person.) The owner, an older man, was a little flirtatious. I think he knew we were not a couple. I was glad that Robin was there as I was uncomfortable with his comments even if they were probably harmless. We got a ride to Pasbébiac and checked our e-mail at the municipal library, where opera music (Madame Butterfly) played in the background. We ate the worst pizza ever: we ordered vegetarian and received a pizza with grated carrots and no cheese. We had to walk back the last 7 km as nobody would pick us up. It was a rough town, with big brutes hanging out car windows, yelling as they sped by. Again, there was a feeling of safety being with another person.
Day 13 – July 4, 2003
Hopetown - New Richmond
It was strange (foolhardy?) sleeping in a bed with a man I didn’t know very well. I felt completely safe though. I trusted him, plus I don’t think he was interested in me in that way. A mutual feeling. A compromise. Practical really. Two people, one bed. More than the bed, was the routine we shared; intimate routines readying for sleep like his yoga and my tooth brushing. I remember him smiling at me from his pillow right before retiring. I had trouble sleeping though because of the traffic outside. We needed to leave the window open because of the heat. We woke to a hot, humid day with many flies. At breakfast, I admitted to the owner that Robin was not my boyfriend and that I had picked him up along the way. I hate being dishonest. Maybe I wanted to shock him a bit. He was genuine in his hope that I would come visit again. He showed us his horses in the back before we set off. We got to New Richmond in no time. I introduced Robin as my "chum" and we went to look at the room. It was beautiful and I was excited by the sight of a screened in porch. Outside, Robin told me he was going to continue on. It was early in the day and he needed to get headway. I completely understood but still felt like my heart was ripped out. I was losing my cycling buddy. We hugged and I said ‘Greva’ – goodbye in Slovenian. He looked just as sad and waved going down the hill. The house owner’s were puzzled that my ‘boyfriend’ had just disappeared. It was kind of comic. I still went upstairs and had a little sad cry. Though it was great to have a cycling partner for part of my trip, it was better that he left. I had work to do. I was back to my lone thoughts and wanderings.
I picked myself up and went of in search of A-11, Angers River/Rivière Angers. I had done my research. It was not very far. I even found a sign. That was a great feeling; knowing I was on the right path.
The river turned out to be a salmon fishing river. It was quite beautiful and musical as well – babbling brooks. I stopped in at the Cascapedia River Museum and found out that it is also referred to as ‘Anglers’ river because of sport fishing, and as Skimenac river by the local Mi’kmaq community. I would like to go back and do further research. I never did find La Ferme village. Perhaps it was a couple of farms that have since been destroyed?
Day 14 – July 5, 2003
New Richmond - Pointe-à-la Garde
It was a very hot day with little wind but the landscape – rolling hills with farms falling into la Baie des Chaleurs with New Brunswick on the other side – made it worthwhile. I found Angers River South/Rivière Angers Sud (A-13), early in the morning. It was almost a creek and quite hidden by the foliage. The fence gave it away.
I had to cross private property and was nervous, but then two cyclists actually passed me. I stopped one of them and he told me they were training for an upcoming race. I laughed. I thought I was in the middle of nowhere. The only sign of human presence were the neat rows of young saplings that were obviously re-planted. He told me that I was on an old gold prospecting road. I tried to go further out of curiosity, but it grew increasingly swampy, hot and humid. The bugs kept me back.
 |
On the way to the hostel I went through the Parc de Miguasha. Hilly and overlooking the bay. I would have liked to stop at the museum to see the fish fossils. According to a local man who gave me directions, my route would pass by Kevin Parent’s house.
When I finally got to the hostel, I had to walk my bike uphill to the Auberge du Château Bahia through the searing heat. At the top I talked to the owner, sweating and profusely and red-faced, only to find out that my reserved room was at the bottom of the hill in the bunker. I promptly changed my reservation, which turned out to be a good thing: I met more people at the communal candle light dinner that night. Daniel and Nathalie from Paris, and Adam, a carpenter from New Zealand who sat opposite me. He was building a new addition to the Chateau – a Library. I remember his face all sunburnt and hot, sweating from the candelabra in front of him. I took a liking to the musical sound of his accent and his shy nature. We traded traveling stories over the meal. That night we talked outside and I gave him the GPS coordinates of the hostel as well as my coordinates in Montreal if he were ever to stop by during his travels. I stayed in “La Tour Xavier Mauny” in the Virginia Woolf room.
Day 15 July 6, 2003
Pointe-à-la-Garde - Causapscal
I left in the morning, sad to leave my new friend. When I went to say goodbye, he was already working on the exterior wall of the library. It was muggy, humid, with little wind. It became hotter in the afternoon and the head wind increased so that my knees felt strained and weak. A bit before Routhierville, I took a lakeside path that I hoped led to Causapscal, as I was tired of the highway with all the transports. It turned out to be a pleasant diversion. I remember seeing a young woman on a tractor, transporting bales of hay to a conveyor belt connected to a barn. After a hard ride, it was a pleasant surprise to get to my destination; a lovely, quaint little town with a river running through it. Some men, waist-deep in the water, were fishing. I was greeted at the B&B by an elderly lady. She could not climb the stairs, and so I had the whole top floor to myself. I was tired and did not feel like talking. She invited some other ladies over for their weekly card game. She sweetly offered to drive me into town. I decided to treat myself to the table d’hôte. I was craving seafood after days of eating yoghourt, bananas and casse-croûte fare. I was served a pasta that was so starchy, that I could not finish it despite valiantly trying to eat my money’s worth. I went to bed early.
Day 16 – July 7, 2003
Causapscal - Ste-Angèle-de-Mérici
 |
Started out on a sunny day and very windy. I found Ruisseau Pearson, but could not find the trail in the fields beside it that led to Angers bridge/pont Angers (A-10). The GPS seemed to be off track. Finally I followed some dirt bike trails through a meadow and some woods. I ended up back on the road and so I tried another trail. It did lead to what used to be a bridge, crumbled and decayed. It looked over hills of golden fields and at the end of the path was a beautiful old farmhouse. The feeling that the path from Angers bridge led to the house seemed magical, other-worldly. That feeling stayed with me all day.
The day’s low was trying to take a shortcut around lake Matapédia and having to detour back because it was impossible. From Sayabec (pronounced like Québec – Sébec – as someone was quick to point out), it was downhill all the way with little wind. (Seven years later, I discovered that my great grandfather on my mother's side, Désiré Hamilton, was originally from Sayabec.) Sainte-Angèle was a very small town, with not much more than a main street.
Day 17 – July 8, 2003
Sainte-Angèle-de-Méricie - Parc québécois du Bic
I left on an overcast morning. By the time I reached Saint-Luce, I had to stop because of the heavy wind and rain. My GPS shut off at one point. I decided to wait the storm off for a bit and visited the Site historique maritime de Pointe-au-Père, which had a fascinating exhibit on the sinking of the Empress of Ireland. It was an excellent exhibit and surprisingly touching. I teared up a few times. I was glad to have taken the time. Winds were so fierce from Rimouski to Bic that I thought my bike would fall over sideways. I also remembered climbing up a large hill, right as I got into Mont-Joli from the Matapedia valley; I passed a farm and a big black dog came running towards me. I blew my trusty whistle and sure enough, it stopped dead in its tracks, very puzzled looking.
I got into parc du Bic early in the afternoon. I should have set up my tent as soon as I got there, but I poked around in the store for some grub first. There was a thunderstorm approaching and I set up my tent right in the middle of it – lightening bolts and crashing thunder. I was soaked to the skin and I was afraid to lose my contacts, such was the water streaming down my face. My hefty little tent stood up to the abuse though. Not one leak. I changed my clothes and took a nap to warm up. I could hear other people setting up as I slept. After eating a bit, I went off for a hike before the sun set. It was remote and peaceful. I did not see anyone else. I needed the quiet after being in traffic all day.
I had to chase an aggressive chipmunk away from my trail mix when I got back to my campsite. He had no fear, even trying to get into my tent. I talked to the three guys at the campfire and they invited me to join them even sharing their beer with me. Sylvain, Micaël and Pierre were from France, taking a month off to backpack through the Gaspésie. We talked until late, each with a different regional accent.
Day 18 – July 9, 2003
Parc québécois du Bic – Rivière du Loup
The next morning I packed everything up because I wanted to hike before leaving. I hiked to Cap-à-l’Orignal and walked on pebbly beaches and sandy coves. A moose was said to have been chased off that cliff. It had chosen its own fate rather than let itself be captured. After leaving the park, I went on to cycle through more wind. My knees were very sore. I got to the hostel so late that the grocery store was closed. I couldn’t eat with the others in the communal kitchen (which was fine, they were not very friendly – inclusive group). I went out for pizza. On my return I talked to an Australian couple touring Quebec and Ontario and the girl at the front desk. Went to bed early.
 |
Trois-Pistoles |
Day 19 – July 10, 2003
Rivière-du-Loup – Saint-Jean Port-Joli
Set out on a windy day, but the route was flat and I made good time. Right before getting to Saint-Jean-Port-Joli, I stopped in a marché de puces to get a pretty tin canister, after almost an hour of browsing. I was in heaven. When I got to the village, I was met with colourful, well-kept houses. It is the sculpture capital of Quebec. I went out for supper at “La coureuse des grèves” restaurant then walked on the beach and to the docks as the sun went down in bright pink, orange and purple.
I chatted with the owner of the B&B in the kitchen, a bright, lively woman. She told me that there was another cyclist staying there from Spain. He was doing the same cycling route that I was, except he was going in the other direction. So when I walked into the house and saw a man, long, lean and muscular, stretched out on the sofa watching TV, I assumed it was that cyclist and approached him. He looked puzzled and I felt stupid that I had blurted out my question – had I been rude? My face reddened and I escaped to my room.
Day 20 – July 11, 2003
Saint-Jean Port-Joli – Lévis
The next morning I went down early for breakfast and the man from the night before came down later. He was so tall – seven feet? – that he had to stoop to get into the room. There were about twelve people gathered at the table. I finally met the cyclist from Spain but he was not very friendly. Met a nice couple from Victoriaville. It truly was a feast and I enjoyed the chatter. Over the course of the meal, I found out that the tall man used to be a dancer with the National Ballet and he was in town choreographing a new piece. We talked about my bike trip but I did not volunteer that it was an art project. There were too many interesting, overlapping conversations at the table. I did leave some material behind with my project details. I then went down to an artist-run-centre, Est-Nord-Est Centre de Sculpture, to meet with Nathalie Lafortune and Julie Picard. We talked over coffee about my Tongue Rug project and their residency program. I was really touched by their generosity, spending that time with me. Julie showed me her work and we hit if off. I left with such a good impression of the centre with thoughts of applying for the residency.
It was an overcast day with showers. Unfortunately, I had too many coffees at the centre and soon I was cycling with a fever, cold sweats and cramping. I had to stop a few times because of the pain. I almost didn’t make it to the rest stop close to Berthier-sur-Mer. I finally made it to Lévis feeling very weak, wet and cold, ready for a hot bath. It was eerie to be back in Lévis after almost three weeks; browner, leaner and tired. At the same time, I was glad to have ‘my’ room again, a familiar comfort. I called Mom to let her know I was safe. She was a lifeline for me. It was grounding to be able to talk to her everyday, to know that she was thinking of me. And in terms of safety, it was a good day to check in every day with someone who knew my itinerary in case something happened. Most of all, on those cold, hard days her voice brought me warmth. On those euphoric days, it was great to be able to share my excitement. I did not realize how lonely a long solo bike trip could be. Yet that feeling was fleeting, as I would always end up meeting the most interesting people.
Day 21 – July 12, 2003
Lévis – Montréal
Got up early for breakfast but went back to bed for two hours simply exhausted. I left for the ferry in the morning feeling groggy. I left my bike at the ferry and walked around Quebec city for a couple of hours. I browsed in various over-priced antique stores and actually ran into Daniel and Nathalie from Paris. We chatted for a bit and I told them about my camping experience at Le Bic. When I told them about ‘le petit suisse’ in my tent, they didn’t know that I meant a chipmunk, and envisioned a small Swiss man coming on to me in my tent. We had a good laugh over that confusion. I enjoyed taking the hydrofoil back. This time without traveling companions, I was left to look out the window and dream, and reflect on my trip. I had a great feeling of accomplishment, some sadness that my journey was over, and some relief and excitement at seeing the Montreal skyline rise from the fog. The leisurely ride home through the Lachine canal trails, St-Henri – my familiar haunts – felt strange; like I had been away for a long time. I hardly had time to unpack. I had to leave for Banff in two days.
Day 1 – June 22, 2003 (Montréal - Lévis)
Day 2 – June 23, 2003 (Lévis - La Pocatière)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
7:45 |
Cap-Saint-Ignace N 47°01'330" W 70°28'842" |
65.1 km | 3:32 | 1:30 | 50.1k/h | 18.4k/h |
| Arrive: 4:30 | La Pocatière N 47°20'876" W 70°04'715" |
115 km | 6:27 | 2:16 | 17.8k/h |
Path: Lévis, St-Michel-de-Bellechasse, St-Vallier, Berthier sur Mer, Montmagny, Cap St-Ignace, L’Islet-sur-Mer, St-Jean-Port-Joli, St-Roch-des-Aulnaies, La Pocatière
Day 3 – June 24, 2003 (La Pocatière - Trois Pistoles)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| 6:35 Stop: 10:50 Depart: 11:15 |
Saint-André de Kamouraska N 47°41'818" W 69°41'655" |
51.4 km | 3:31 | 51 min | 42.6k/h | 14.6k/h |
| Stop: 1:00 | Directions in Rivière du Loup N 47°49'793" W 69°32'697" |
|||||
| Arrive: 4:30 | Trois-Pistoles N 47°20'876" W 70°04'715" |
118 km | 8:41 | 1:43 | 49.4k/h | 13.6/h |
Path: La Pocatière, Rivière-Ouelle, St-Denis, Kamouraska, St-André, Notre-Dame-du-Portage, Rivière du Loup, Cacouna, L’Isle Verte, Trois Pistoles
Day 4 – June 25, 2003 (Trois Pistoles - Sainte-Flavie)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| 6:10 Stop: 8:22 Leave: 8:45 |
Saint-Siméon N 48°12'480" W 69°02'700" |
21.2km | 1:55 | 21 min | 38.8k/h | 11.0k/h |
| Stop: 10:40 Depart: 11:10 |
Parc québécois du Bic N 48°21'029" W 68°47'822" |
40 km | 3:09 | 25 min | 12.9k/h | |
| Stop: 12:50 Depart: 1:05 |
Rimouski (Piste Cyclable Raymond-Sirois) N 48°25'753" W 68°35'575" |
|||||
| Arrive: 4:30 |
Sainte-Flavie N 48°37'03" W 68°13'09" (18 FT ) |
94 km | 7:16 | 1:20 | 40k/h | 12.9k/h |
Path: Trois Pistoles, St-Simon, St-Fabien, Le Bic, Sacré Ceoru, Rimouski, Pointe-au-Père, Ste-Lucie, Mont-Joli, Sainte-Flavie
Day 5 – June 26, 2003 (Sainte-Flavie - Réserve faunique de Matane)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| Depart: 5:05 Stop: 7:50 Leave: 8:20 |
Baie-des-Sables N 48°44'415" W 67°51'54" |
38 km | 2:24 | 59 min | 44.6k/h | 15.7k/h |
| Stop: 10:20 Depart: 12:15 |
Matane N 48°51'122" W 67°32'244" |
66 km | 4:04 | 1:46 | 16.3k/h | |
| Stop: 1:20 Depart: 1:30 |
Saint-René-de-la-Matane N 48°43'270" W 67°26'749" |
87.4 km | 5:13 | 3:40 | 16.7k/h | |
| Arrive: 2:35 |
Entrance of Réserve Faunique de Matane N 48°39'328" W 57°19'875" |
101km | 6:12 | 3:54 | 16.2k/h | |
Arrive: |
Poste John - Réserve Faunique de Matane N 48°38'969" W 67°16'369" |
104km | 6:30 | 4:01 | 16k/h |
Path: Sainte-Flavie, Grand-Métis, Métis-sur-Mer, Les Boules, Baie-des-Sables, St-Ulric, Matane, St-René de Matane, Réserve faunique de Matane
Day 6 – June 27, 2003 (Réserve faunique de Matane - Ste-Anne-des-Monts)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| Depart: 7:30 Stop: 11:45 Leave: 12:25 |
Réserve faunique de Matane N 48°41'866" W 66°50'067" |
|||||
| Arrive: 1:00 |
Étang de la Truite N 47°40'849" W 66°47'151" |
36.3 km | 3:05 | 1:13 | 30.7k/h | 11.7k/h |
| Arrive: 1:30 Depart: 2:30 |
Centre d’interprétation de l’Orignal GPS shut off. |
|||||
| Arrive: 7:45 |
Sainte-Anne-des-Monts N 49°08'133" W 66°27'712" (22FT) |
58.3 km? Recalculated with map. 130 km |
4:42? | 2:53? | 30k/h | 12.4k/h |
Path: Réserve faunique de Matane, Cap-Chat, Ste-Anne-des-Monts
Day 7 June 28, 2003 (Ste-Anne-des-Monts - Parc Québécois de la Gaspésie)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| Depart: 12:45 Stop: 2:50 Depart: 3:00 |
Grande Fosse N 48°58'915" W 66°12'412" (553FT) |
30.1km | 1:41 | 29 min | 46k/h | 17.8k/h |
| Arrive: 3:45 |
Parc Québécois de la Gaspésie N 48°56'081" W 66°06'731" |
37.5 km | 2:20 | 33 min | 16k/h |
Path: Ste-Anne-des-Monts, Parc Québécois de la Gaspésie
Day 8 June 29, 2003 (Mont-Albert - Petite-Vallée)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| Depart: 7:15 Stop: 9:22 Leave: 9:45 |
Lookout on Route 16 N 48°54'126" W 66°03'005" (3745FT) |
9.69 km | 1:58 | 8 min | 14.5k/h | 4.9k/h |
| Stop: 12:20 Depart: 12:30 |
Camping du Mont Jacques-Cartier N 49°01'568" W 65°52'808" (3418FT) |
41.2 km | 4:41 | 30 min | 30.4k/h | 8.8k/h |
Stop: |
Saint-Pierre-des-Monts GPS shut off in the park. |
63.6 km | 6:36 | 35 min | 30.4k/h | 9.6k/h |
Arrive: |
Petite Vallée Recalculated from map: |
98.7 km | 8:02 | 1:55 | 82.2k/h (van) | 12.3k/h |
Path: Mont-Albert, Mont-St-Pierre, Mont-Louis, L’Anse Pleureuse, Gros Morne, Manche d’Épée, Madeleine Centre, Rivière-la-Madeleine, Grande-Vallée, Petite-Vallée
Day 9 June 20, 2003 (Petite-Vallée - Cap-aux-os)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| 8:30 Stop: 1:20 Depart: 1:50 |
Pointe-Jaune GPS stopped tracking. |
44.9 km | 4:28 | 37 min | 41.4k/h | 10k/h |
Stop:
|
Cap-des-Rosiers GPS stopped. |
81.2 km | 7:31 | 1:52 | 63.0k/h | 10.8k/h |
Arrive:
|
Cap-aux-Os |
86 km Recalculated from map: |
8:00 | 2:04 | 10.7k/h |
Path: Petite-Vallée, Pointe-à-la-Frégate, Cloridorme, St-Yvon, Grande-Étang, L’Anse-à-Valleau, St-Maurice-de-l’Échouerie, Rivière-au-Renard, L’Anse-au-Griffon, Jersey Cove, L’Anse-à-Louise, Cap-des-Rosiers, Cap-Bon-Ami, Cap-aux-os.
Day 10 – July 1, 2003 (Cap-aux-Os - Parc National Forillon)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| 5:45 |
Cap-de-Gaspé N 48°45'070" W 64°09'668" |
10.1 km | 2:10 | 24 min | 9.5k/h (bike) | 4.6k/h |
| Arrive: 8:06 |
Camping Parc Forillon N 48°46'124" W 64°11'733" |
Path: Cap-aux-Os, Cap-Bon-Ami, Parc National Forillon
Day 11 July 2, 2003 (Cap-Bon-Ami - Percé)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| 9:30 Stop: 12:15 Depart: 12:25 |
From hostel Haldimand |
GPS was off (Robin's data = 63 km) |
||||
| Stop: 1:30 Depart: 1:45 |
Seal Cove N 48°44'584" W 64°19'730" |
22 km |
1:07 | 10 min | 47k/h | 21.1k/h |
| Arrive: 5:00 | Percé N 46°31'464" W 64°12'688" |
68.9 km (From Haldimand) Recalculated from map: 110 km |
3:57 | 57 min | 49k/h | 17.4k/h |
Path: Cap-Bon-Ami, Cap-aux-Os, Fontenelle, Gaspé, Douglastown, St-George-de-la-Malbaie, Pointe-St-Pierre, Belle-Anse, Coin du Banc, Percé
Day 12 July 3, 2003 (Percé - Hopetown)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| 8:20 Stop: 9:30 Arrive: 11:00 |
Cap-d’Espoir Bike Store at Grande-Rivière |
14 km | 0:53 | 8 min | 40.8k/h | 16k/h |
| Stop: 11:20 Depart: 11:45 |
Halte Municipal N 48°23'120" W 64°32'149" |
|||||
| Stop: 2:30 Depart: 3:10 |
CLSC Gascons-Ouest |
67.9 km | 4:39 | 1:35 | 40.8k/h | 14.6k/h |
| Arrive: 5:15 |
Hope Town N 48°02'903" W 65°10'051" |
93 km | 6:30 | 2:07 | 40.8k/h | 14.3k/h |
Path: Percé, L’Anse-à-Beaufils, Cap D’Espoir, Grande-Rivière, Pabos, Chandler, Pabos mills, Newport, L’Anse-aux-Gascons, Port Daniel, Shigawake, St-Godefroi, Hopetown
Day 13 July 4, 2003 (Hopetown - New Richmond)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| 8:20 Arrive: 12:00 |
New Richmond N 48°10'292" W 65°52'472" |
51 km | 2:41 | 25 min | 48.3k/h | 18.9k/h |
| Depart: 1:15 Arrive: 3:00 |
Rivière Angers N 48°02'903" W 65°10'051" |
76.9 km | 4:27 | 2:09 | 17.2k/h | |
| Depart: 3:30 Arrive: 4:25 |
Cascapedia River Museum | |||||
| Depart: 5:00 Arrive: 5:30 |
B&B N 48°10'292" W 65°52'472" |
97.2 km | 5:39 | 2:29 | 17.2k/h |
Path: Hopetown, Paspébiac, New Carlisle, Bonaventure, St-Siméon, Caplan, New Richmond, St-Jules (La Ferme, St-Jules, New Richmond)
Day 14 July 5, 2003 (New Richmond - Pointe-à-la Garde)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| 8:00 Stop: 10:00 Depart: 10:30 |
|
26.7km | 1:41 | 36 min | 43.1k/h | 15.7k/h |
| Stop: 10:30 Depart: 10:45 |
N 48°15'670" W 66°02'996" |
|||||
Stop: |
Carleton N 48°06'097" W 66°07'321" |
54.7 km | 3:20 | 1:02 | 45.2k/h | 15.6k/h |
| Stop: 4:25 Depart: 5:00 |
Escuminac N 48°08'224" W 67°09'107" |
96.6 km | 6:13 | 2:11 | 15.5k/h | |
| Arrive: 5:51 |
Pointe-à-la-Garde N 48°05'553" W 66°31'210" |
103 km | 6:34 | 2:15 | 15.7k/h |
Path: New Richmond, Maira, Carleton, St-Omer, Nouvelle, Miguasha, Escuminac, Pointe-à-la Garde
Day 15 July 6, 2003 (Pointe-à-la-Garde - Causapscal)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| 9:20 Stop: 11:30 Depart: 11:55 |
Matapedia CLSC N 47°58'656" W 66°56'221" |
37.2 km | 2:09 | 11 min | 40.7k/h | 17.3k/h |
| Stop: 2:00 |
N 48°08'224" W 67°09'107" |
|||||
| Stop: 2:30 Depart: 3:00 |
Routhierville N 48°10'879" W 67°08'827" (297FT) |
65.1 km | 4:02 | 41 min | 16.1k/h | |
| Arrive: 4:50 |
Causapscal N 48°21'400" W 67°13'442" (507FT) |
94.2 km | 5:56 | 1:38 | 15.9k/h |
Path: Pointe-à-la-Garde, Pointe-à-la-croix, Restigouche, Matapédia, Routhierville, Ste-Florence, Causapscal
Day 16 July 7, 2003 (Causapscal - Ste-Angèle-de-Mérici)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| 8:15 Stop: 11:00 Depart: 12:05 |
Ruisseau Pearson N 48°31'235" W 67°21'657" (859FT) |
32.3 km | 2:47 | 59 min | 45.7k/h | 11.6k/h |
| Stop: 1:26 Depart: 1:40 |
Angers Bridge N 48°31'689" W 67°19'801" (900FT) |
|||||
| Stop: 2:00 Depart: 2:25 |
St-Tharcisius N 48°32'711" W 67°20'396" |
43.1 km | 4:07 | 1:44 | 10.4k/h | |
| Stop: 5:00 Depart: 5:15 |
Sayabec N 48°33'978" W 67°41'397" |
|||||
| Arrive: 7:00 |
Sainte-Angèle-de-Mérici N 48°31'5748" W 68°04'996" (329FT) |
120 km | 8:02 | 2:47 | 54.4k/h | 14.9k/h |
Path: Causapscal, St-Benoit, Amqui, St-Tharcisius, Val-Brilliant, Sayabec, St-Moïse, Ste-Angèle-de-Mérici
Day 17 July 8, 2003 (Sainte-Angèle-de-Méricie - Parc québécois du Bic)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| 8:25 Stop: 10:00 Depart: 10:25 |
Sainte-Luce N 47°01'330" W 70°28'842" (23FT) |
29.8 km Heavy rain and wind. GPS shut off. |
1:32 | 42.9k/h | 19.3k/h | |
| Stop: 10:55 Depart: 12:10 |
Pointe-au-Père (Museum of the Empress of Ireland) |
|||||
| Stop: 1:30 Depart: 1:50 |
End of Rimouski Trail (Sacré-Coeur) N 48°25'752" W 68°35'558" |
55.5 km | 3:15 | 13 min
|
17.1k/h | |
| Arrive: 3:20 |
Parc québécois du Bic N 48°21'161" W 68°45'933" (119FT) |
71 km | 4:20 | 41 min (Hour at museum) | 16.4k/h |
Path: Sainte-Angèle-de-Méricie, Rimouski-Est, Parc québécois du Bic
Day 18 July 9, 2003 (Parc québécois du Bic – Rivière du Loup)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| 10:50 |
Cap-à-l’Orignal N 48°22'123" W 68°48'464" (7FT) |
|||||
| Stop: 12:10 Depart: 12:25 |
Saint-Fabien N 47°01'330" W 70°28'842" (399FT) |
12.7km | 1:09 | 12 min | 30.5k/h | 11k/h |
| Stop: 2:20 Depart: 3:05 |
Trois-Pistoles N 48°07'400" W 69°32'135" |
|||||
| Arrive: 7:40 |
Rivière du Loup N 47°50'256" W 69°32'135" |
106 km | 7:29 | 1:28 | 44.4k/h | 14.1k/h |
Day 19 July 10, 2003 (Rivière-du-Loup, Saint-Jean Port-Joli)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| 9:30 Stop: 11:00 Depart: 12:45 |
Saint-André-de-Kamouraska Halte Écologique des Battures N 47°38'576" W 69°45'461" (71FT) |
28.4 km | 1:28 | 10 min | 38.3k/h | 19.2k/h |
| Stop: 11:40 Depart: 12:25 |
Kamouraska N 47°33'996" W 69°51'936" |
|||||
| Stop: 2:30 Depart: 3:05 |
La Pocatière N 47°20'365" W 70°05'458" |
|||||
| Stop: 3:50 Depart: 4:15 |
Saint-Roch-Des-Aulnaies, Marché de Puces N 47°16'707" W 70°12'483" |
|||||
| Arrive: 4:40 |
St-Jean Port Joli N 47°12'994" W 70°16'122" |
98.1 km | 5:25 | 1:19 | 18.1k/h |
Day 20 July 11, 2003 (Saint-Jean Port-Joli – Lévis)
| Time | Location | Trip Odometer | Moving Time | Stopped | Max Speed | Moving Average |
| 9:00 Stop: 9:05 Depart: 10:20 |
Est-Nord-Est Centre de Sculpture N 47°11'610" W 70°17'194" |
|||||
| Stop: 12:00 Depart: 12:10 |
Montmagny N 46°58'837" W 70°33'221" |
36.6 km | 1:42 | 1:27 | 36.8k/h | 21.4k/h |
| Stop: 1:15 Depart: 1:35 |
Berthier sur Mer N 46°54'908" W 70°45'231" |
|||||
| Arrive: 3:55 |
Lévis N 46°48'898" W 71°11'133" |
97.8 km | 4:50 | 2:09 | 45.2k/h | 20.2k/h |
No comments:
Post a Comment